There is a bitter sweetness I feel when I think about how this quirky, gorgeous, laid back and sometimes crazy island of Cozumel has changed since I moved here in the 1980’s. While modern conveniences have increased significantly, the quaint charm and tight knitfeeling of a fishing village has somewhat diminished. Being a typical naïve college student from the U.S., I had no idea how many lessons were ahead of me.  Being young allowed me a sense that moving to a tropical island would be one great adventure. While it most definitely has been that, what I didn’t know at the time was how much the differences in cultures would change me.

My initiation into local living began abruptly as the water suddenly stopped during my morning shower.This left me a very soapy, disgruntled and confused little gringa as I anxiously waited for the water to return. My education of local plumbing began with tinacos, bombas and cisternas, all of which were new concepts for me. The most remarkable part of this is that before my then 21 years, I had never had the water in a shower just stop running!

As a tourist I dined out daily with little thought or concern for how the food came to be on my plate. My blissful ignorance came to a screeching halt as I attempted to prepare my first home cooked meal.  I quickly came to learn that the simple purchase and preparation of food was an all-day affair. The availability of ingredients played a major role in determining what I was going to serve. This turned shopping into a scavenger hunt.  As my boyfriend and I attempted to eat it, he very graciously validated my efforts by saying  “This is the most delicious, well-seasoned shoe leather I have ever tasted!” Ultimately we decided to dine out on tacos that night. What was common knowledge here was culture shock for me, as he explained that in order to get tender, quality meat you had to be nice to the butcher and ask for the better pieces.

Returning from the corner abarrotes store after a partially failed attempt at buying toothpaste and sliced ham, I was chuckled at and told that of course they have ham! When I said I didn’t see packages of ham anywhere (like on the shelves in US grocery stores.I though if you didn’t see it, they didn’t have it!) I was told I needed to ask for the ham. I was however successful in retrieving the toothpaste, not without some effort on both the store keepers’ and my part. I thought that I was very clever and prepared by inquiring beforehand on how to ask for toothpaste and told to simply ask for Colgate. I asked for “Cole-gate” in my US accent as I would in the states, and the storekeeper looked at me with a blank stare. I then launched into hand signals of brushing my teeth and finally the woman laughed and said “Ah……Cole-got-ay!”….in her Spanish accent…..

Anything from toilet seats to microwave ovens, mayonnaise, Chinese food to furniture and yes, it is true – a full size heavy duty washing machine…you name and it was so kindly brought down on airplanes by truly lovely and brave friends and family. This was of course pre 9/11!

The stories are many and the lessons are endless. All of this taught me so many things. It taught me to be resourceful; to make a fauxricotta cheese by taking queso fresco and squishing it in milk for lasagna…..a friend would make one of her old favorites, pimento cheese by processing Daisy Cheese in a food processor and stir in canned pimentos. I learned somewhat how to prime a pump in order for the water to run again……and I learned Spanish!

But I think the two most valuable things that I have learned while living in Cozumel are perspective and gratitude.

Slowly over the years, travelling to different parts of the world I have learned the vast differences in how people live and what people from these different countries consider basic needs. I have indulgedin huge consumerism at times, and I have learned to live on much less at other times. I have learned to enjoy life even when there weren’t 150 options of boxed cereal in the grocery store and my favorite fashionable clothing was not available.

After more than one devastating hurricane, with no electricity or running water I made attempts at making one tinaco full of water last for weeks. I learned how to be a neighbor and ask if mine needed any food or water or if they knew anything about when the electric company would be coming to repair, or if they needed a cell phone to call someone. But more importantly, when the electricity and water returned I had a much deeper understanding of the things that I take for granted on a daily basis, even on an island that at one point would run out of things like toilet paper.

So when I go to brush my teeth, open the faucet and the water flows out, I am filled with gratitude for these simple things. Cozumel has actually taught me a lot about being a stronger, more aware human being. Thank you Cozumel!

Tammy Cervantes runs her own yoga studio in Cozumel.  You can find her teaching schedule on her webpage as well as contact information for her private classes.  In addition, Tammy also conducts healing retreats and workshops  in various locations throughout the world.

This story originally appeared in the weekly Cozumel 4 You NEWS – the island’s number one source of positive information about our island!  Be sure and subscribe to the weekly NEWS to find out all the island events!…

Laura Wilkinson
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